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Muztagh-Ata Peak

Program of ascention to Muztag-Ata Peak 7546 m


Over the last few years, as an object of climbing, the Muztag-Ata Peak (7546 m) has been increasingly becoming more and more popular with both local and foreign mountaineers. This is first and foremost due to the area’s uniqueness and good accessibility, relatively low expedition costs and vast array of information on the peak available.
Easternmost boundary of the Pamir Uplands - the Kashgar Mountains - makes up a giant icy barrier cutting Pamirs off greatest desert of the Central Asia - the Taklamakan Desert. It is here the Pamir Uplands protrude eastwards, and the gigantic eastern “foothold” of the “Roof-of-the-World”, as Pamir is nicknamed, is clearly outlined by chain of the Kongur mountain system on the north-east and the Muztag-Ata massif on the East. The Muztag-Ata Range and the Kongur Range incorporate Pamir’s three highest peaks, namely: the 7719 m-high Kongur-Tag (Kongur-1), the 7595 m-high Kongur-Tyube-Tag (Kongur-2) and the 7546 m-high Muztag-Ata.
Muztag-Ata (“father of ice-clad mountains” in Turkic language) is geographically located in the north-west China. The peak gently sloping westwards flatness out into a plain - the Subashi “glade” that is ran north to south by famous Karakoram Motorway (Kashgar - Tashkurgan - Gilgit) passing along just 10 kilometres off the Muztag-Ata glaciers.
First-ever climb to Muztag-Ata took place in 1956 when joint Soviet-Chinese expedition led by Y.A.Beletskiy and K.K. Kuzmin attempted it on the southernmost of the mountain’s west ridges. 31 mountaineers succeeded to the top - 19 Soviets and 12 Chinese.
In the middle of the Muztag-Ata’s western slope there is a giant hole (fault) funnelling in ice falling down from surrounding mountains and feeding in the Kartamak Glacier flowing down along the fault. On the right-hand and left-hand side of the fault two “classic” routes take a climber up to the top: the North-slope route and the South-slope route accordingly. For the time being, most safe and popular is the Southern route. The route is not that technically difficult. However, crucial factors to the success or failure of your expedition might be unpredictable weather and high-altitude pressure. Not only good physical conditions and appropriate high-peak gear but also good and correctly done acclimatization are required from the climber to safely reach the goal. Annually, more than 600 mountaineers visit Muztag-Ata area. And some of them view the mountain as an object good for ski downhill, too.
So, you’ve made your choice and your goal is Muztag-Ata now. Then you may opt between three Central Asian cities to start your journey from: either Bishkek (in Kyrgyzstan), or Tashkent (Uzbekistan), or Osh (Kyrgyzstan). The nearest town to the Base Camp is Kashgar in China - the town accessible from the above-mentioned cities by road. It may take you two days to get to Kashgar by car across mountain passes – either Torugart Pass or Irkeshtam Pass.
“Kashgar” - for centuries this name was acting as a magnet for many a generation of adventurers and explorers from all over the world. From ancient times, the town was playing a role of a gateway to Tibet and Central Asia, to China and India and had seen thousands of caravans and expeditions. Some travellers would pass the town through to remember it for the rest of their lives while others, lured with its Oriental charm, would stay there forever.
Well, nothing to worry, you personally are just among many of those who made up their mind to cross this land on their way to the Muztag-Ata Base Camp.

We offer 2 options of arrival to the Base Camp:

1. Via Bishkek - The capital of Kyrgyzstan - and further transfer to Naryn - the pass Irkeshtam - to Kashgar.
2. Via Osh - The Southern capital of Kyrgyzstan - and further transfer to the yurt camp «Sarytash» - the pass Irkeshtam - to Kashgar. We consider this option more convenient and less tiring.

*Note: You should fill 2 copies of declaration at the custom upon arrival in the country. You should keep one of them till the end of your trip.


Dates for combined teams: from 23.07.2010 to 16.08.2010


Program of the tour:

Day 1
1. Via Bishkek: Arrive in Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer from Bishkek to Naryn.
2. Via Osh: Arrive in Osh. Meeting at airport. Transfer from Osh to the yurt camp Sarytash.

Day 2
1. Via Bishkek: Drive Naryn - Torugart. Then you carry on driving from Torugart to Kashgar where you are having your lodge at hotel. Kashgar is a town most proximate to Base Camp.
2. Via Osh: Drive Sarytash - Irkeshtam (3536m). Then you carry on driving from Irkeshtam to Kashgar where you are having your lodge at hotel.

Day 3

 Drive Kashgar - Subashi (200 km, 4-5 hours).

Day 4

 Trek Subashi - Base Camp (at 4350 m). Camels carry your load on from Subashi to BC. As soon as animals are loaded the caravan sets off and trekking starts along the trail that takes you across multiple hills to the Base Camp (approximately 4 hours). Base Camp (4350 m) is favourably fitted into a very scenic locality where you tread upon continuous multicoloured carpet of alpine herbs and flowers and are cheerfully saluted by marmots whistling in their distinctive way.

Day 5

 Preparation for ascent.

Day 6

Acclimatisation walks in the Base Camp area.

Day 7

 Uphill from BC (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). Organisationally, the ascent to the summit requires usage of three interim high-altitude camps. Camp 1 is set at 5350 m above see level.

Day 8

 Downhill from Camp 1 (5350 m) to BC (4350 m).

Day 9

 Uphill from BC (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).

Day 10

 Uphill from Camp 1 (5350 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m).From Camp 1 track gradually goes up on the snow-, partly ice-covered slope over and across multiple crevasses towards small levelling stretch of the glacier.

Day 11

 Downhill from Camp 2 (6200 m) to BC (4350 m).

Day 12

 Day of rest.

Day 13

 Uphill from BC (4350 m) to C-1 (5350 m).

Day 14

 Uphill from C-1 (5,350 m) to C-2 (6200 m).

Day 15

 Uphill from C-2 (6200 m) to C- 3 (6800 m).

Day 16

 Storm the summit from C-3 (6800 m) to the top of Muztag-Ata (7546 m) and get back to C-3 (6800 m).The path to the summit is quite straightforward. From altitude 6800 m till 7400 m the slope gradually levels becoming more and more flat.

Day 17

 Downhill from C-3 (6800 m) to BC (4350 m).

Day 18-20

 These are extra days in case of bad weather.

Day 21

 Track from BC (4350 m) to Subashi. Drive from Subashi to Kashgar.

Day 22

 Sightseeing programme in Kashgar.

Day 23
1. Via Bishkek: Drive Kashgar - Torugart - Naryn.
2. Via Osh: Drive Kashgar - Irkeshtam - Sarytash.

Day 24
1. Via Bishkek: Drive Naryn to Bishkek.
2. Via Osh: Drive Sarytash - Osh.

Day 25
1. Via Bishkek: Depart from Bishkek.
2. Via Osh: Depart from Osh.

The cost of the tour in USD:

Pax/quantity
6
8+1
10+1
Bishkek-Bishkek
2420
2060
1860

The cost of the tour includes:

• Meeting/seeing off at the airport;
• Osh-Sary-Tash-Irkeshtam-Kashgar-Subashi transfers and the same for the road back;
• All needed documents arrangement: Invitation Letters, OVIR registration, Eco fees, permits;
• Accommodation in 2-3* hotel with breakfast and in yurts in yurt camp according to the program;
• Full board during Subashi-Base Camp trekking program;
• Transportation by camels from Subashi till Base Camp (4350 м) and for the way back;
• Excursion program and entry fees for the monuments in Kashgar;
• Accompany guide of "Pamir Expeditions"Co.;
• Liaison officer in Base Camp;
• Mineral water for the transfers;
• Services in Base Camp (4350 м):
- Accommodation in tents for two seats;
- 3 times of meals – European and Chinese cuisine;
- Using of toilet, shower and storage chamber;
- Guide-consultant services;
- Medical services;
- Electricity 220 В; 50 Hz;
- Consultation of professional Mountain guides;
- Rescue party registration;
- Using of long-haul radio.

The cost does not include:

• Insurance;
• Visa cost;
• Services of accompanying high-altitude guide and/or high-altitude porters during the ascent;
• Rent of high-altitude equipment.

After completion of your expedition to Muztag-Ata Peak you have a unique opportunity to extend you travel to include world-famous cities of the Orient: Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Osh. You can also opt for a few days of sunbathing on the sandy beech of the Issyk-Kul Lake. We would love to help you organise such extension tour tailored to your specific needs.

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