Communism Peak

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Program of ascention to Communism Peak 7495 m.

Communism Peak is the highest peak on the territory of former USSR; very impressive and well-known one, that is located in the Northern-West part of Pamir. The peak was discovered in 1928, during Soviet-German scientific expedition and at first till 1962 was called Stalin peak, then it was renamed as Communism Peak. In 1999 when Tajikistan became an independent state it was renamed again as Ismail Somoni peak, in honour of the founder of the first state of Tajiks (in X century).
The capital of Tajikistan – Dushanbe – is the departure point of the expedition. The most convenient option of approach is the option of arrival to Dushanbe by international flights, for present there are international flights from Istanbul, Munich and Moscow. The option of arrival to Dushanbe from Tashkent (via Samarkand) seems interesting for those who want to make a sightseeing program along the world famous sights of Samarkand after finish the expedition.

There is only one possible option of getting to the Base camp from Dushanbe for present – a helicopter flight. Now there are no any opportunities for walking passing that was possible several years ago because of difficulties of passing. There are two options of getting to the Base camp on Moskvina Glade:
- Directly from Dushanbe.
- By car from Djirgital and further flight.
The Base camp is on the height of 4200 m. above sea level, near the confluence of the glaciers Walter and Moskvina (the Eastern branches of the glacier Fortambek). It’s the most convenient and safe departure point for ascending to Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks because of the shorter approaches.
After the flight to the Base camp we recommend you to make a wonderful 2-4 days long trip via the glacier Fortambek to Suloeva glade. You can enjoy the views of such Pamir giants, as Russia peak, Moscow peak, the glacier Tramplinnyi – the spring of continual falling avalanches.
Vorob’eva peak (5691 m) and Chetyreh peak (6299 m) are used for acclimatization very often. They are located quite nearby the Base camp. It’s possible to ascend to Vorob’eva peak for one day, to Chetyreh peak – for 2-3 days.
The two peaks – Vorob’eva and Chetyreh have many points of visibility. You can see fantastic panoramas to the surrounding peaks, especially to the highest of them: Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks.
You have to take into account the altitude of Communism peak overtops 7000 m and that’s implies high-altitude climbing. The route to the top is technically difficult and existence of such crafty factors as unpredictable weather and pressing height can play a determinative role in success or failure of your expedition. For successful expedition you would be required good physical training, essential equipment and correct acclimatization.

THE SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE OF ASCENDING TO COMMUNISM PEAK (ALONG BORODKINA RIDGE):

Day 1	Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel, accommodation. Free time for walking in the city, visiting the bazaar and so on.
Day 2	Transfer to the airport, flight to Moskvina glade, accommodation in the Base camp.
Day 3	Acquaintance with area. Preparation day for ascent.
Day 4	Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (5691m). Night at Camp 1 (5300 m).
Day 5	Expedition to Vorobiova Peak. Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 6-7	Rest days.
Day 8	Acclimatization climb to Communism Peak. Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m.). The route goes along the right side of the glacier Walter to the helicopter field, then it crosses the glacier ander the beginning of Borodkina ridge.
Day 9	Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.)
Day 10	Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 11	Rest day. You have a good possibility to walk around the picturesque environs, to make many colorful pictures.
Day 12	Rest day.
Day 13	Ascent to the Camp 1 (5100 m).
Day 14	Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 15	Ascent to the Camp 3 on Pamir plateau. Early in the morning we begin the ascent to the two-headed summit so called "bosom".
Day 16	Ascent to the Camp 4 on Dushanbe Peak (6900 m). The part is not difficult technically; we are moving in links along the Northern snowy-icy slope to Dushanbe Peak, not reaching the top, making the traverse to the left. If you don’t have strength enough, you can put the camp at 6400 m or 6700 m.
Day 17	Ascent to the summit – 7495 m. The route goes along the steep snowy slope at the left side of the rocks (trapezium), then along snowy-icy "knife" of the crest. The summit looks like a small rocky field with memorable plates.That’s the summit!
Day 18	Descent to the Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 19	Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 20-25	Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 26	Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 27	Departure from Dushanbe.

THE COST OF THE PROGRAM:

Full package	1800 EUR / person.
Small package	1000 EUR / person.

THE COST INCLUDES:

• Arranging necessary documents (permit for 1 summit, ecology tax, registration in immigration policy) NB permits for the next summits (80 EUR / pax) are paid additionally;
• Meeting / transfer from / to airport;
• All transfers according to the program;
• Helicopter flights Dushanbe- BC (Moskvina Glade)-Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 3 EUR / kg);
• Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights);
• Services in Base Camp:
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting);
- full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;
- sauna (steam room) at BC;
- medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
- electric supply 220V; 50HZ;
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team.

THE COST DOES NOT INCLUDE:

• The cost of visa support (24 EUR / pax);
• Document of acceptance of tourist (7 EUR / pax);
• Tajikistan visa (48 EUR / pax);
• Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
• Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
• Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners;

BASE CAMP (4200 M) PUT AT YOUR DISPOSAL:

• Stationary dining room for 80 people – ideal and the coziest place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, audio and videotape recorders, chess, checkers and backgammon.
• Canvas tents (2 persons per tent) put upon woody pallets with mattresses and electricity.
• Shower / sauna.
• City version of WC – it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror in each Camp.
• Cloak-room.
• Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced doctor-reanimation with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour.
• Volleyball play-field. Long live sport and international tournaments of volleyball!!!
• Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend.
• 3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years.
• Internet and satellite telephone.
• Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; priming of gas canisters.

ADDITIONAL SERVICES IN BASE CAMP:

- Filling of gas canisters (230 mg) – 3 EUR / gas canister.
- New gas canisters (230 mg) – 8 EUR / gas canister (reduction 1,5 EUR for return of used canister).
- Satellite phone, e-mail, bar – according to price list of the Base Camp.
- Rent of radio station – 5 EUR / pair (per day).
- Rent of mountain tents for ascending – 6,5 EUR / day.
- The services of a mountain guide – 50 EUR / day.
- The services of porters for ascending: (4200 – 5300 м) - 8 EUR / kg, (5300 – 5800 м) - 12 EUR / kg, (5800 – 6300 м) - 20 EUR / kg, (> 6300 м) - 28 EUR / kg.

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